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Всичко за оръжието и мунициите на едно място

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Непрочетено мнение Публикувано на: 11 Апр 2007, 18:14       Заглавие:  Така го правят професионалистите
 
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От интернет форумите се запознах с един много интересен човек. Джон О'Стюард - оръжеен инструктор и оръжейник на полицейски департамент в Колорадо, по-специално отговаряш за оръжията на ЗигАрмс и Колт. Той беше така любезен да предостави на българските любители на огнестрелните оръжия инструкцията по която полицаите в Колорадо подържат своите пистолети.




These procedures were originally written for the officers of my agency who,
like most other LEOs, don't know much about guns and usually have even less
interest in them except as a seldom-used tool of their trade. My goal was to
prepare a "cookbook"-style set of instructions that could be followed by new
shooters to achieve an adequate level of firearms maintenance. Knowledgeable
and experienced gun owners may find them to be either somewhat simple and
overly-detailed on one hand or that they've left out some things they think
are important on the other. The thing to remember is that this is a guide,
not carved-in-stone, the-only-way-to-do-things dogma. As with any guidance,
users should make their own evaluations and judgments as they go along and
decide for themselves what's best for them.

In addition, it's important to understand that one method of cleaning and
maintaining autoloading handguns like the SIG Classic-series is not the
absolute best for all uses that the guns may be put to. The emphasis of this
guide is on cleaning and maintaining a SIG pistol carried for defensive
purposes by police and others. If the gun is fired a lot, especially during
long training sessions when it's not possible to strip the gun and lubricate
it during the day, extra lube at the beginning is undoubtedly a good idea. I
live in a dry mountain climate where the record high temperature is less
than 90 degrees and winter-like weather can be expected from September
through May. Perspiration and other contributors to rust are not common
problems. If you live where the humidity is high, where you're exposed to
salt sea air, or where high temperatures result in a lot of sweating, extra
rust prevention measures will probably be necessary. A gun that's used only
on the range or kept in the house for defensive purposes can be left
"wetter" than one that's carried in a holster every day.

Don't hesitate to contact me if you have any questions or comments on how to
improve any of this.

SIG SAUER CLASSIC-SERIES PISTOL CLEANING AND MAINTENANCE

Refer to the factory operator's manual for a troubleshooting table and
instructions on the proper method of field stripping the pistol for
operator-level cleaning and maintenance. With the occasional exception of
also removing the pistol grip plates (see below), further disassembly of the
gun at the operator level is not required or recommended. If you do want to
disassemble your gun further than field-stripping it, ask for advice on the
SIGforum. Although disassembling Classic-series SIGs is easier than some
brands, there are a few tips that make the job much simpler and will also
help you avoid a couple of pitfalls that can cause serious problems.
One of the best things that SIG pistol owners can do for themselves is to
purchase the armorer DVD produced by Chris Willardsen and Chris Orndorff.
It's available directly from them though the contact information posted on
the SIGforum, Brownells, or Top Gun Supply.

Improper or inadequate cleaning and lubrication are the cause of most of the
problems experienced with the SIG line of handguns. Whenever you fire your
pistol, it should be cleaned at the first opportunity. However, despite the
importance of ensuring reliability by cleaning a gun every time it's fired,
there's another reason that's seldom discussed, but is actually even more
important. If a defensive gun is fired regularly and frequently for practice
and training (as it should be), when is it most likely to suffer a failure
of some kind-during practice or during a real-life shootout? The answer is
obvious: during practice. Field stripping and cleaning the weapon after
every range session helps ensure that problems are detected as soon as they
occur.

--- Cleaning Materials and Equipment

A basic cleaning kit should include the following items: Cleaning rod at
least 4.5" long (5-6" is more convenient); bronze (not stainless steel!)
bore brush of the proper caliber to fit your barrel; slotted cleaning patch
tip; cloth gun cleaning patches of the proper size; toothbrush or similar
brush with short, stiff bristles; gun cleaning solvent(s); gun oil and/or
grease; and absorbent cotton rags or paper towels (I recommend Bounty or
other good quality brand; the cheap ones tend to smear the dirt rather than
absorb it).

Other items that are not absolutely necessary but can be very useful include
a shaving brush or similar long-bristled brush; cotton-tipped swabs
(Q-tips); wooden toothpicks; screwdriver to fit grip panel screws; proper
caliber cleaning "jag" (a solid brass or plastic cleaning rod tip that holds
a cleaning patch in tight contact with the bore of the barrel); and a cotton
bore "mop" of the proper caliber.

The SIGARMS company recommends that its guns be cleaned and maintained only
with solvents and lubricants that are specifically intended for use on
firearms. Solvents and cleaners which are not marketed by their
manufacturers for use on guns should be avoided. These include various paint
thinners and cleaners, ultrasonic cleaning compounds, and fuels like
gasoline and kerosene. In addition to the obvious health and safety hazards
that some such materials pose, they are usually much more effective at
removing the lubricants necessary for the gun's proper operation than they
are at removing dirt and firing residues. Certain solvents may also damage
or destroy the synthetic materials and finishes used in modern guns. Oils,
greases, and other lubricants that are not intended for firearms may not
provide protection for the unique stresses that firearms are subject to, may
leave harmful or difficult to remove residues on the gun, damage holsters
and other duty gear, or contaminate or deactivate ammunition.

--- Cleaning

The fundamental purpose of cleaning is to remove all foreign substances from
the gun. This refers to firing residues plus perspiration, dirt, debris, and
other contaminants that may have accumulated on the gun during routine
handling and carrying.

*** Caution: Before beginning the cleaning process, unload the pistol and
all magazines. Ensure that the weapon is unloaded by looking through the
magazine well and into the chamber of the barrel. After looking, double
check by feeling with a finger that the chamber is empty. Remove all
ammunition from the immediate area so that you do not unthinkingly load the
gun or magazines until the entire cleaning process is complete.
*** Wear adequate eye protection (like your shooting glasses) throughout the
cleaning process. Escaping springs and splashing cleaning compounds can
cause serious eye injury.

1. Field strip the pistol in accordance with the instructions in the
operator's manual.

2. Barrel. Cleaning the barrel is the most time-consuming process and
therefore it's recommended that it be started first. Note that the below
sequence is a general one useful for a variety of modern solvents, but the
best thing to do is read and follow the instructions provided by the
manufacturer of the solvent you're using.

*** Caution: Always read the instructions accompanying all cleaning
compounds and lubricants. Some solvents can cause property damage or
physical injury (including severe eye damage) if used improperly. Some very
powerful solvents should not be left in contact with the gun, including the
bore, for more than 15 minutes at a time. Again, read and follow the
manufacturers' instructions!!!

a. Wipe the outside of the barrel with a rag or paper towel to remove all
lubricants, loose dirt, and firing residues. Remove all grease and oil from
the locking and cam surfaces on the bottom of the barrel. Although the
outside of barrel may be wiped with a solvent-moistened patch if desired,
it's not usually necessary. Thoroughly wiping off the old lubricant is
normally all that's required. For removing old, dirty lubricant I prefer to
use 91 or 99 percent isopropyl alcohol (see below).

b. Moisten a cleaning patch with solvent and swab out the bore. Change the
patch, moisten with a copious amount of solvent and swab the bore again,
this time leaving the solvent to soak while you clean the rest of the
pistol. (If the gun hasn't been cleaned for some time, brushing the bore
five or six times before applying solvent is a good idea.)

c. Once the rest of the gun is clean, go back to the barrel and finish
cleaning the bore. After the bore has been moistened with solvent and
allowed to soak for a time, it should be swabbed dry with a clean patch. At
this point it is usually necessary to brush the bore to loosen the powder
residues, even if the bullet jacket (copper) fouling has been removed. Brush
the interior of the barrel (the bore) by passing the bronze cleaning brush
back and forth through the barrel 10 times (each way). More brushing may be
necessary if the bore is very dirty, but 10 times is a good starting number.
If a combination cleaner/lubricant like Break Free is used, it may be used
on the brush while brushing the bore. Other solvents, especially if they are
designated as "copper removing," may attack the brush itself and therefore
should not be used directly on copper/bronze brushes. Nylon bore brushes are
available and may be used with aggressive solvents if desired.

Note: Do not use stainless steel brushes for cleaning any part of the gun.*
Stainless steel may scratch the bore (resulting in a barrel that becomes
dirty more easily and is harder to clean) and remove the protective finish
from other parts. Do not pull the brush back through the barrel until it has
been pushed all the way through. Reversing the brush inside the bore can
damage the brush and the barrel. Always clean the barrel from the breech
(chamber end). Cleaning from the muzzle is more likely to damage the rifling
in the bore and that can destroy the pistol's accuracy. If a jag is used, be
careful when pulling it back into the bore so that it does not strike the
muzzle or rifling. Do not allow the cleaning rod to rub against the barrel,
especially at the muzzle end.
[* Some people have reported good results with using a toothbrush-style
stainless steel brush on the breech face. That area has no finish to scratch
or remove, and it's usually not highly polished, so it may not cause a
problem. In any event, I still prefer a copper or brass brush for that area.
They may leave a little copper or brass residue, but that's easily wiped
off.]

If necessary, the bore may be brushed again as required, but excessive
brushing should be avoided; let the solvent do its work. The barrels of SIG
pistols are very high quality and a dry, clean bore will be smooth and
shiny. Any visible streaks or other residue show that the bore is not
completely clean. However, it may be very difficult to remove all residues
by ordinary means and in fact this is not necessary; minor streaks and
residues may be ignored.

3. Recoil spring and guide. These two parts usually require nothing more
than wiping with a rag or paper towel. Note that the recoil spring has (or
should have) a tight end and a loose or open end. The tight end goes on the
recoil spring guide rod first; the idea is that it's held captive on the rod
when installed properly. To remove a tight-fitting recoil spring from the
guide, hold the flange of the guide and twist the spring clockwise while
pulling with your other hand.
Most SIG recoil springs are of a multi-stranded design which makes them less
prone to breakage. If you notice that any of the strands are broken,
however, replace the spring as soon as possible.
The recoil spring of SIG model P229 pistols chambered for 357 SIG and 40 S&W
has a central strand surrounded by six additional strands. The central
strand often moves out from the rest, but that's normal and not a concern
unless the migrating strand moves more than a quarter turn. Once it gets to
that point it should be replaced.
The recoil springs of the P239, P245, and Pro-series are flat and don't have
a tight end.

4. Slide assembly. Carbon firing residues (soot) will accumulate inside the
barrel channel of the slide, on the breech face (where the firing pin comes
through), and on the bottom side of the breech block (the part that holds
the extractor and firing pin). (Only some SIG handguns have separate,
removable breechblocks.)

a. Wipe all parts with a patch lightly dampened with cleaning solvent or
91-99% isopropyl alcohol. Avoid using a patch that is so wet that solvent is
squeezed into the firing pin hole or other openings in the breechblock.
Dirty solvent that runs into the breech block mechanism is difficult to
remove and if it builds up enough, can interfere with the firing pin and
extractor. Holding the slide with the muzzle end down while cleaning the
breechblock will minimize solvent running inside.

b. Stubborn residues, especially on the breech face where the bottom of the
cartridge case contacts it, may require scrubbing with the toothbrush, or
even better, a similar brush with brass or copper bristles, followed by a
cotton swab lightly moistened with cleaning solvent. A brass scraper that
looks something like a screwdriver with a small brush on the other end is
also available as a gun cleaning tool. The scraper is useful for removing
the really tough residues found in the corners of the breech face. Scrapers
can be easily made from brass (or copper) sheets or tubes (found in many
hobby shops and hardware stores) or even a flattened brass cartridge case.
Solvent may be used with the brush, but remember to avoid using so much that
solvent gets into the breech block.

c. Small nooks and crannies in the slide assembly may be cleaned by wrapping
a patch around the end of the cleaning rod, by rolling a patch up into a
tight cylinder, or (best) by using cotton swabs. Again, use cleaning solvent
if necessary, but only the amount that's required. Often isopropyl alcohol
works fine for this cleaning chore.

5. Frame assembly. Carbon residues, unburned grains of gunpowder, and
sometimes small metal shavings from the bullet or cartridge case will
accumulate at various places inside the frame, in particular around the
magazine well. A long bristled brush is useful for primary removal of metal
fragments and gunpowder grains and dirt and dust that gets into the gun
during normal handling and carrying. Brushing or swabbing with a dry bore
mop or cleaning patch before using solvent is often the most effective way
to remove such debris. Carbon residues may have to be removed by using the
toothbrush or patches moistened with solvent. As stated elsewhere, solvent
should be used sparingly. Solvent can carry dirt into inaccessible parts of
the gun and remove the grease and oil on interior parts. After cleaning,
excess solvent should be wiped off the gun.

The interior of the magazine well should be wiped out with a rag or paper
towel. A bore mop on the cleaning rod is also an excellent way of cleaning
the magazine well. Do not use lubricants or solvents inside the magazine
well unless absolutely necessary. The frames of SIG Classic-series handguns
are made of anodized aluminum or stainless steel, so protective coatings are
seldom necessary to prevent rust. The interior of the magazine well does not
normally become dirty enough with firing residues to require solvents to
clean it; scrubbing with a dry cloth patch or bore mop is usually
sufficient. Residues from lubricants or solvents in the magazine well will
hold dust and other dirt which may interfere with the insertion and removal
of magazines.

6. Grip plates. The grips are screwed to the frame and do not need to be
removed for routine cleaning and maintenance. The screws are made of soft
steel that may be damaged by using the wrong screwdriver. When installing
the screws, turn them in until they are just snug and then 1/8 to 1/4 turn
more. Be careful, however, not to tighten the screws so much that the screw
or frame (much worse!) is stripped.

*** Caution: If the grip plates are removed for any reason, care must be
used to avoid dislodging and possibly losing the springs on both sides of
the gun. Installing the trigger bar spring improperly (and it's easy to do)
may disable your gun.

*** Caution: When removing grip plates, don't lose the star washers under
the panel screws if they are present. They're required to keep the screws
tight, but more important, if they're missing, the screws will probably
extend into the magazine well and interfere with insertion and removal of
magazines.

7. Magazines. The magazine is typically the most neglected part of the gun,
but for reliable operation, it's more important than the barrel. A dirty
barrel may reduce your gun's accuracy slightly, but a dirty or damaged
magazine can turn your gun into a single shot or lock things up entirely.
All of the magazines you carry should be disassembled, inspected, and
cleaned every time you clean your pistol--whether they've been used or not.

There are two basic ways of disassembling SIG pistol magazines. Some P220
magazines have a flat, solid floor plate and the end of the magazine spring
is visible on the bottom left side, just above the floor plate. While
holding the magazine upside down, press the spring end down and push the
floor plate forward. Most magazines have base plates with a round hole in
the middle and a small plunger that protrudes into the hole. Depress the
plunger with a non-marring object and push the floor plate forward and off.
When disassembling any magazine, hold it so that if the spring gets away
from you it doesn't hit something important like an eyeball. As stated
earlier, eye protection is always a must. Pull the spring out and then let
the follower drop out of the magazine tube.

Magazines like the 10-round versions for the P226, P228, and P229 have an
internal bottom "insert" that is held captive by flanges on the magazine
tube when the floor plate is removed. The insert can be removed by pressing
down on one side and allowing the other edge to clear the flange and be
lifted out.

Firing residues (including soot, unburned powder grains, and metal shavings)
will accumulate on the outside and inside of the magazine--but especially
inside. Cleaning the magazine should be done by brushing and swabbing with a
dry bore mop or cleaning patch. Like the magazine well of the pistol,
solvents and lubricants should be used very sparingly with the magazine.
Residues may hold dust and dirt, and vapors or fluids from such materials
may deactivate your ammunition. If solvents or lubricants must be used for
complete cleaning or rust removal and prevention, all parts should be wiped
as dry as possible. If a substance with a volatile carrier (like WD-40) is
used, care must be taken to allow the carrier to evaporate completely before
the magazine is loaded.

If you carry magazines in pouches, inspect them regularly and remove dirt
and debris. Dirty magazine pouches are a prime cause of dirty magazines and
dirty, contaminated ammunition. Some pouches are tight enough to hold
rainwater or melted snow.

Magazines can be damaged if dropped (as during reloading drills). If the
feed lips are bent or damaged, the cartridges may not feed properly. SIG
magazines are fairly sturdy and will seldom be damaged during normal use,
but they should nevertheless be examined closely at the end of all training
sessions and any other time they're dropped. If there is any doubt about the
condition of a magazine, it should be test fired for reliability. Fixing a
magazine by bending the lips is rarely successful and "repaired" magazines
should never be carried for duty or defensive use. I have separate magazines
for my guns that I use only for training and competition purposes. If
possible, carry magazines should be inspected and tested regularly, but not
subjected to deliberate abuse.

--- Lubrication

The purpose of lubrication is to reduce friction that can interfere with the
proper functioning of the gun and to protect the gun from rust and
corrosion. Like solvents, the only lubricants (oil or grease) that should be
used on your SIG pistol are ones that are specifically designated by the
manufacturer as being designed for guns. Lubricants made and marketed for
other applications should be left to those applications.

Although either grease or oil may be used for all gun lubrication
applications, I prefer grease whenever it's possible to use it properly
(that is, when the parts can be disassembled and the grease placed directly
on the right spots; smearing it around the general area is of no value). For
operator maintenance on the field-stripped pistol, I again prefer gun grease
over oil. When lubricating a part, first wipe it as dry as possible and then
apply the grease. Grease should be rubbed in until it loses its color;
smearing it on in big globs is a waste and allows it to run (or ooze) off
and get on other things. If you use oil, apply it sparingly and directly to
friction points.

Lubricant, whether grease or oil, should be visible on the part and it
should be possible to feel it when it's touched. On the other hand, if the
lubricant moves under the force of gravity (that is, runs off), then there's
too much of it. Lubricant that runs off is wasted and gets into and onto
places where it doesn't belong (like clothes and ammunition). However, extra
lubricant may be used on the gun before it is used for an extensive training
session. Not only will the extra lube help protect the gun, it may also make
cleaning easier by keeping firing residues in a semi-liquid state.

Another reason to use lubricants--especially grease--sparingly is that most
of them thicken and become "stiff" in cold weather and may cause
malfunctions.

The general cleaning rule is to remove everything that's not part of the
gun. The lubrication rule is to lube anything that's shiny. An addition to
the shiny rule is the outside of "carbon" steel slides and anything else
that's subject to rust (like the trigger and other "controls"). The amount
and type of rust protection necessary depends on your local environment and
use of the gun. Regardless of what methods and products are used, the key to
preventing rust is regular and frequent inspection of the gun and
reapplication of rust preventative as required. In some situations, that may
be every day or even more often. A silicone cloth (sold at gun and sporting
goods stores) works fairly well for exterior rust prevention and doesn't
leave oily residues that can stain clothing.

--- Specific lubrication points in the field-stripped pistol (remember the
"shiny parts" rule):

Recoil Spring Guide: along the rod.

Barrel:
The locking and cam surfaces on the bottom of the barrel.
The outside of the round part of the barrel where the "smiles" form.
An exception to the shiny rule: don't put any grease inside the barrel or
the chamber (where the cartridge goes) or on the feed ramp (the sloped part
leading into the chamber).
It's very important, however, that the bore be well protected against rust.
A thin film of gun oil or CLP is usually all that's required, but a heavy
coat (which must be cleaned out before the gun is fired!) is recommended for
long-term storage or storage in rust-promoting environments.

Frame:
Any shiny spots on the rails; because of the SIG design, there's usually
little contact between the steel of the slide and the frame, so not much
lube is necessary on the rails, either. The exception to this guidance
pertains to guns with stainless steel frames and slides. Most users of SIG
pistols having stainless slides and frames report significantly more
friction between those parts than aluminum frame guns. I use more and
heavier lubricant on "ST" model SIGs.
The shiny area on top of the locking insert; that's the steel block that
fits inside the frame in front of the magazine well.
The shiny spot on the top of the disconnector. That's the piece that sticks
up from the trigger bar on the right side of the magazine well.

Slide:
The shiny patch inside the top of the slide in front of the ejection port.
The shiny ridge down the middle of the breech block that rides over the
hammer.
The barrel and recoil spring guide should already be lubed, but if you want
you can put a bit of lube around inside the holes in the frame that they
extend through to the front.

Magazine: As noted above, the magazine should be kept clean of anything that
might hold dust and dirt and could deactivate the ammunition. A very light
coat of rust preventative can be put on the spring and the outside of the
magazine tube can be rubbed with a silicone cloth or a very light rust
preventative, like a thin film of CLP. Stainless steel magazine tubes should
be left clean and dry under most conditions.

After cleaning, lubricating, and reassembling the pistol, conduct a function
check. Manually cycle the slide back and forth several times to ensure that
it moves freely and that the barrel and slide lock in position as they
should. Dry fire the gun, both double action (with the hammer down) and
single action (with the hammer cocked). Insert an empty magazine and pull
the slide back to confirm that it locks open. Remove the magazine and
release the slide by depressing the slide catch lever; repeat the test by
pulling the slide back and releasing it by hand. Finally, remove the
magazine by depressing the magazine catch (release button) to ensure that
the empty magazine drops freely from the gun; repeat three or four times.

--- Some miscellaneous observations:

I've tried many different cleaning solvents:

Break Free CLP isn't a particularly good bore cleaner, but it won't hurt
anything, either. It can be applied directly to brass/bronze bore brushes to
enhance the cleaning process. There are other Break Free products besides
the CLP and I suspect they are better cleaners, but I don't have any
personal experience with them.

Hoppe's "number 9 powder solvent" perhaps works a little better as a bore
cleaner than Break Free CLP, but not much. It is an old formula that was
developed for removing the highly-corrosive black powder and early priming
residues of 100 years ago. It is somewhat effective as a rust preventative,
but it makes more sense to use a modern dedicated product like CLP or
another gun oil. The one thing I do use Hoppe's for these days is to
immersion soak a dirty barrel that doesn't want to come clean without a lot
of effort. I stand the barrel up in a container full of Hoppe's and let it
soak for 24-72 hours (or longer, if desired) and then most fouling will
brush out easily. I've found the ideal soaking container to be an 8-oz.,
wide-mouth "Nalgene" bottle. It's just large enough to hold a 4.5" SIG
barrel, is unbreakable and resistant to the Hoppe's, and has a tight-fitting
screw lid to prevent spills, prevent evaporation of any volatile components,
and to keep the smell in. It may be possible to use other solvents for long
term immersion soaking, but use caution when choosing them. Some solvents
have a reputation for attacking steel after long exposure and others are
water-based. You'd no more want to leave your barrel in them for hours at a
time than you would leave your barrel in the kitchen sink. Hoppe's is mild
stuff but works well for long-term immersion soaking.

Shooters' Choice is a satisfactory general purpose cleaner; it does a decent
job on powder residues and it will remove copper jacket fouling if it's
allowed to work for a significant amount of time. Applying it to a bore
brush will enhance its effectiveness, but it also attacks brass/bronze
brushes so they need to be rinsed in hot water immediately after use.

Butch's Bore Shine is a more aggressive copper removing solvent than
Shooter's Choice and is what I use most of the time for that purpose. I've
left it in pistol barrels as long as overnight with no apparent problems. I
don't apply it to bore brushes and I don't expect it to remove powder
residues.

Sweet's 7.62 Solvent contains a high percentage of ammonia and is the most
aggressive commercial copper-removing solvent that I'm familiar with. I
don't leave it in a bore for more than 15 minutes at a time. I use it when
nothing else seems to be working. Its high ammonia content makes it capable
of causing severe eye damage, so be sure to wear eye protection when using
it. In fact, of course, eye protection should be used whenever you field
strip a gun or use any type of solvent or cleaner.

Isopropyl alcohol. I've found 99% isopropyl alcohol (available at drug
stores) to be an inexpensive, effective degreaser and solvent for removing
soot-type firing residues. Some lubricants work better if applied to a
thoroughly-degreased metal surface and 91 or 99% alcohol works well for the
purpose. Another advantage of alcohol as a cleaner is that it evaporates
without leaving any residue, and if it runs inside inaccessible places like
the firing pin channel or breechblock, it's less likely to cause problems.
Isopropyl alcohol is of course flammable and care must be exercised when
using it. Because it is a thorough degreaser, steel parts must be protected
with oil or other rust preventative after using it.

I sometimes use Kroil, a penetrating oil, for removing powder residues. It
has to be used with a bore brush for normal cleaning. Some people use it for
prolonged soaking or immersion, but in my experiments it doesn't work as
well as Hoppe's number 9.

After 500-1000 rounds I sometimes use a more thorough cleaning procedure
than patches and a brush. I remove the obvious copper fouling with a
chemical solvent (Butch's or Sweet's) and then go after the powder fouling
with a mild abrasive. I use a felt pellet along with J-B Bore Bright (not
the original J-B "bore cleaner" which is more abrasive) and Kroil. Be
certain to completely remove all of the Bore Bright before firing the gun.
(I use this method only if the bore isn't thoroughly cleaned by other
methods, such as immersion soaking.)

Kroil, Bore Bright, and the felt cleaning pellet system are available from
Brownells.

There are other good cleaning solvents on the market. Just be sure to pay
attention to what they're intended to accomplish; the copper-removing
solvents I'm familiar with aren't particularly good for removing powder
residues.

My favorite lubricant is TW-25B at the moment, but I have used Wilson
Ultima-Lube grease with good results. I also use Break Free CLP or Mil-Comm
MC2500 oil if I have to lubricate something that I can't disassemble and
apply grease directly and properly to the parts. I use RIG "+P Stainless
Steel" grease on the friction points between the stainless steel frame and
slide of guns like the P226ST. RIG grease is also recommended if the gun
will be fired extensively, as during a range session. My SIGs that I use
only at the range are heavily lubricated with +P RIG.
I haven't tried it myself yet, but another interesting product that
knowledgeable competitors rely on for high-usage guns is Brian Enos' "Slide
Glide." High-viscosity greases help prevent what Bruce Gray refers to as
pistols' "battering themselves to death." Slide Glide has been implicated in
causing slow slide velocity malfunctions in cold temperatures, so use it in
accordance with the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations.
Link: http://www.brianenos.com/pages/slide-glide.html

Mention and discussion of specific cleaning and lubricating products are not
intended to suggest that others aren't as good or even better; I just
haven't tried them. The ones I use work as described and that's why I use
them.


 
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